How to choose a safety razor
Most buying guides rank models. That is not much use, because the same razor suits one face and irritates another. What follows is what to look at instead.
Weight, and where it sits
Under about 60 grams you end up pressing, and pressing is what causes irritation. Around 80 grams the head falls into the stroke on its own. Ours is 81 grams, most of it in the head.
Blade gap, the thing nobody publishes
The gap between blade and guard decides how close and how forgiving a razor is. Small gap, mild. Large gap, keen and less forgiving. Fixed razors pick one for you and never tell you which.
An adjustable razor puts that choice on a dial. It is the single feature that removes the guesswork from buying, which is why we build only that kind.
Grip when your hands are wet
A smooth handle is fine in a photograph and useless in a shower. Knurling that runs the full length is what keeps the razor in your hand with lather on it.
What does not matter as much as you think
Open comb against closed bar, three pieces against two: real differences, small ones. If you are choosing your first razor, get the weight and the adjustability right and the rest follows.
Common questions
What is the best setting to start on?
One. Shave with it for a week before touching the dial, then move to two.
Are expensive razors better?
Past a point you are paying for material and finish rather than the shave. Weight, gap and grip are what change the result.
Do I need a brush and soap?
They help, but you can start with what you already use. Get the razor angle right first.
How long does a safety razor last?
Decades. Only the blade is consumable, and it costs about five cents.